Appetizer

Sekuwa

Name: Sekuwa
Total time: 8 h 30 min
Yield: 4 servings
Cuisine: Indian
Ingredients: 1000 g boneless lamb leg, trimmed and cut into chunks; 120 g plain yogurt; 1 tbsp lemon juice; 0.5 tsp turmeric powder; 1 tsp garam masala; 1 tbsp fresh ginger, finely chopped; 1 tbsp garlic, finely chopped; 2 small green chillies, finely chopped; 10 g fine sea salt (about 1% of the lamb); 2 tbsp ghee, for basting; 1 tsp lemon juice, for finishing

Sekuwa is Nepalese barbecue at its most traditional — lamb marinated overnight in a yogurt and spice mixture, then threaded onto skewers and grilled over a wood or charcoal fire, basting constantly with ghee. The word itself means 'roasted' in Nepali, and the dish has the satisfying simplicity of something that has been made the same way for generations.

8 hr 30 minServes 4 medium

Method

Combine all the marinade ingredients (yogurt, lemon juice, turmeric, garam masala, ginger, garlic, chillies and salt) in a large bowl. Add the lamb and mix until every piece is thoroughly coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, or overnight.
If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for 30 minutes before threading. Remove the lamb from the marinade and thread onto skewers.
Preheat a charcoal barbecue or chargrill to medium-high heat.
Grill the skewers for 8–10 minutes , turning frequently and basting generously with melted ghee every couple of minutes, until the lamb is charred at the edges and cooked to your liking. As whole-muscle lamb, it's safe at an internal 63 °C / 145 °F for blushing-pink medium (rest it 3 minutes after); take it to 71 °C / 160 °F if you prefer it well done.
Remove from the grill, season with flaked salt and a squeeze of lemon juice. Serve with beaten rice and tomato chutney.

Cook's note. The overnight marinade is not negotiable — the acids in the yogurt work slowly on the lamb, and a short marinade will give you a completely different (inferior) result. Start the day before.

The story

Sekuwa is associated with the Eastern hills of Nepal and is particularly popular in the Terai towns along the border with India. Traditionally cooked on iron skewers over a wood fire built in the open air, it is both a daily food for meat-eaters in the hills and a festive dish for weddings and celebrations. The technique of overnight yogurt marination connects it to the wider South Asian tradition of tandoori cooking.